Day 193
Start: The Birches
End: Katahdin
Miles Hiked: 5.3
Miles on AT: 2197.4
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My alarm went off at 4:30 this morning, but I wasn’t the first one out and about. Today was summit today! Red lights floated around the campsite as hikers got their gear in order, packing things up for the last time on the AT. It was a chilly morning, but the wind had died down from yesterday and the electric excitement that ran through my veins kept me warm. I couldn’t believe it. This was the end! Well, almost.
After I had breakfast and packed my things up, I headed to the little shelter in front of the ranger’s station to get my day pack together and filter enough water for the hike. Snacks? Check. Water filter? Check. Headlamp? Check! I was ready to go.
The sun started to rise just as I set off for Katahdin. Looking up at the majestic mountain, a few light clouds covered the peak, but otherwise the sky was clear. It was going to be a beautiful day!
My mind was full of determination as I set off. “You got this, you’re capable, you can do it” was my mantra as I tried to quell my nerves. The initial part of the trail was surprisingly easy. The incline was gradual and the path was mercifully rock-free. Even when I started to climb a bit, I was finding it much easier than the Whites. As my elevation increased, the temperature dropped and ice appeared. Part of the trail was still wet, with ice-encrusted streams flowing downhill. I tried my best not to step in any ice-cold puddles (my feet would only freeze, not dry), but one part of my foot did get wet.
I took my snack break just before treeline knowing it would be the last time I could escape the freezing wind before the summit. The night before I had pre-made cheese and summer sausage sandwiches, which I was immensely grateful for now. Fueled for the remainder of the climb and ready to warm my body up again, I set off for the second phase of the climb.
I was not prepared at all for what I had to face. I had seen other people’s Katahdin summits on YouTube and imagined a boulder field reminiscent of the Madison descent, but it was nothing like that. First, I was confronted with a series of exposed climbs that boggled my mind. There are really no words to describe the experience other than to say I continually thought I couldn’t find a way to get up and over the rocky maze, but each time I managed to stretch my imagination and comfort zone and advance a few more feet. I had to pulled myself up by my hands, shimmy myself up slick rock, and contort myself to get through rock crevices. It was intense and one of the most insane things I’d ever done in my life. The words, “This is crazy, I can’t believe I’m doing this,” continually ran through my mind.
A day hiker couple passed me on the way up as I was stopping to contemplate my life choices. The woman had already climbed Katahdin over 30 times and it showed! They nimbly picked their way up and over the rocky spine to the summit. Ever so slowly, I made my way up. Rime ice covered the rocky surface, but its unique texture wasn’t slippery. The wind started to pick up and I quite literally had snot blown from my nose by the wind. It was disorienting, but I continued to keep my eye on the prize.
There weren’t a ton of hikers up there with me, but as I looked back, I could see more coming up behind me. Eventually, Mace passed me; he moved with assurance and I could tell he was really enjoying it.
“This is crazy!” I yelled to him over the wind.
“It wouldn’t be the AT if it wasn’t!” He yelled back with a smile. Truer words were never spoken.
When I reached the Tableland, I finally felt like I was on solid ground. That is, until I took a few steps. My foot slid from under me and I almost face-planted, but I caught myself at the last moment. Okay, well, it was time to take the ice seriously! I tried taking a video of the wintery beauty that surrounded me, but my camera wouldn’t focus; it was too cold!
With frozen toes, I continued my way across what felt like a tundra. Putting one foot in front of the other, I made steady progress. Once I got to the final ascent up to the summit, the rime ice made the path difficult to see, but I picked my around the delicate alpine grasses as best as I could.
As I looked up, I could see others at the summit, taking pictures, hugging the sign, and celebrating their last moments on trail. The bittersweet sight made me tear up; we had all worked so hard, and now we were all here at the same time. When we had started, we had no idea when or how or with whom we would finish, but this was our moment.
When it was my turn to get to the sign, the first thing I thought was, “It’s smaller than I thought it would be.” And it really was. Still, I climbed up on that sign and proudly took my picture. I did it! I made it to the summit of Katahdin! Standing up there, looking out over the Maine landscape as the sun rose in the clear sky, I felt victorious. No more struggling, no more mountains, no more rocks. I had conquered the hardest trail I’d ever tackled and no one could take that away from me.
I spent a few minutes up on the summit with the other hikers who summited before and after me. It was such a gorgeous day. The clouds were thin and disappearing and the sun was rising ever stronger, warming the air. Despite the cold start, the day was almost reminiscent of spring. As I started my descent, I could see the long line of hikers making their way up the mountain. A number of day hikers were already at the summit when I arrived, but now there were at least 30 day and thru hikers coming up. Starting early was a great decision.
On the way down, I passed all of the familiar faces: Eggz and Bacon, 3Cheeks, Gripper, and more. We all exchanged congratulations and high-fives. It was a day of celebration all around! When I found a quieter spot on the mountain, I took advantage of the cell service and gave Janitor a call. After showing him the view from the summit, he revealed he had a surprise for me. He was here! He was going to meet me as I descended the mountain. Yay!
That really put me into gear to get down. Part of me wanted to hurry, but it was truly such a nice day out. Plus, I couldn’t hurry that much descending the Abol Trail. It wasn’t a bad trail, but it was definitely a bit steep and required concentration in a few parts. Plus, there was a steady stream of hikers both up and down the mountain.
Once below treeline, I took my last break and enjoyed my last trail magic Coke that I had packed out from the Watchman. Yes, I was ready to finish my hike. After I finished the last sip, I took a few steps, and there he was. Janitor! I flew into his arms, a little preoccupied with how smelly I was, but also ecstatic to see him again after being separated for the last few weeks.
We hiked arm in arm for the last mile or so, and we eventually reached the road that would take me back to civilization. We got into his rental car, picked up my things at the ranger station, then headed back to Millinocket, giving a couple of thru hikers a ride on the way.
It was a perfect end to my AT thru hike!
And that’s day 193.
A version of this post originally appeared on TheTrek.co.